Turbo studs failing

Hi guys,
My turbo bolts ( manifold to turbo) failed twice,
First time one broke. (5 years old, maybe normal)
Second time, I installed new gasket and 4 new stud and nuts. (From UK turbo company)
But now they are losening  .  .  .

Any tips or tricks?
Wich ones are you guys using?

You seen the locking tabs ?
Check on heat but high tensile trouble is if they snap in you might not get them out. If just loose lock tabs

These are just any ones not saying they fit your turbo

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=turbo+locking+tabs&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=driftworks+high+temp+lock+nuts&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari

These nuts i'm using,
Doesn't seem to work.
Maybe it's the gasket . . .

Dont use the perforated type of gasket here, only the pressed steel one. I used a perforated one the first time i took the turbo out and it only lasted about 6 months before disintegrating and allowing the nuts to loosen. Next time round i replaced it with the pressed type and its been fine so far

oem are cheap enough and way better quality than any aftermarket options .

Ok Mr B, OEM studs.
Nuts also OEM?
Gasket metal folded?
Or flat metal with one rib in it?

Will use locking tabs also

I use copper nuts, seem to do the job well so far. Surfaces need to be flat as well. If using aftermarket exhaust make sure it doesn't put to much pressure on the turbo, twisting can cause then to come loose as well.

Last time I did the turbo I fitted these as my locking tabs looked like they were the originals:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kenjutsu-Manifold-to-Turbo-Locktabs-Locknuts-For-RNN14-Pulsar-GTiR-SR20DET/131704630251?hash=item1eaa352beb:g:XkQAAOSwa-dWnRl0:rk:180

one of these for the manifold to head: (perforated one fitted looked like it had been blowing slightly!)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cometic-MLS-Steel-Exhaust-Manifold-Gasket-For-RNN14-GTiR-Pulsar-SR20DET/152952444421?hash=item239cad1605:g:veUAAOSwFeNa4xPY:rk:200

one of these for the manifold/turbo join:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kenjutsu-Folded-Stainless-T28-Manifold-Turbo-Gasket-RNN14-GTiR-Pulsar-SR20DET/112807456953?hash=item1a43d930b9:g:zJkAAOSw07Vafsco:rk:360

and one of these for the elbow/downpipe join:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-3-3-BOLT-EXHAUST-DOWNPIPE-DECAT-GASKET/263163386368?epid=2163864809&hash=item3d45c29a00:g:BU4AAOSwsW9YwR8L:rk:140

Note that this ^^^ one has a reinforcement ring on the inside to help stop it burning away.
As you've probably gathered, I wasn't wanting anything to leak or come loose this time round!

^^^^ Nice! Think I might need to get myself all those bits to!

^^^ not cheap but piece of mind 

Ordered some kenjutsu parts,
Will go to nissan for the OEM studs.
Just not sure about the gasket, I had a metal folded gasket and it came lose.
Anyone uses the flat gasket with one rib?

Like the one i linked earlier or different design?

You link is metal folded,

This is what I ment;

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.fr%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254016628631

Its not quite the same thing but ive got that style of gasket on my turbo/elbow join for about 18 months without issue. It should be fine i reckon

I have been using those metal gaskets - manifold to turbo (4 hole) and turbo to dump (multi) for about 100,000 km, not a problem.

It is best to use the locknuts (also known as prevailing torque nuts or stiff nuts) that have a 'crush' in the head that acts as a self-lock. Most of these type are re-useable (once or twice before throwaway).

I use the oem nissan studs nuts and gasket, the graphite coated soft alloy when oem nissan is quite good and it only 18 of your GBP roughly .
Not had best results with jam nuts/k-nuts so I always lock tab what can easily, do diy lock tabs from stainless repair washers cut with tab and locating tongue if grind/drill recesses in flange for it to pair with .
the metal layer not bad and cheap in the US

Ok, lockingtabs ,OEM studs and metal folded gasket of will be.
Anyone knows nissan partnumber for the studs?

Are the locking tabs just used on the top nuts of the manifold or both?

They're used on the 4 studs that stick out the bottom of the manifold that the tubbie bolts on to. Once the tubbie is in place, the lock tabs go on and then the nuts. AFAIK the nuts you get with that Conceptua tuning locking tab kit have got those "prevailing torque nuts or stiff nuts" in it.

Its probably a good idea to get some of those nuts for the head/manifold too...I just remembered I put on copper plated versions of these last time I changed the turbo and they've not loosened at all!
Shouldn't seize either..hopefully

OEM p/n

Studs 0826703010
Nuts   089128401A
Gasket 1403653J00


You may want make a support bracket from block to turbo to reduce vibration and stress to studs and gasket .

Ok, thanks everybody.

Stud for manifold to turbo is 1406401M00 and nut is 14432P7600 or 144320B700

mike74 wrote:They're used on the 4 studs that stick out the bottom of the manifold that the tubbie bolts on to. Once the tubbie is in place, the lock tabs go on and then the nuts. AFAIK the nuts you get with that Conceptua tuning locking tab kit have got those "prevailing torque nuts or stiff nuts" in it.

Its probably a good idea to get some of those nuts for the head/manifold too...I just remembered I put on copper plated versions of these last time I changed the turbo and they've not loosened at all!
Shouldn't seize either..hopefully

Ohhh of course, for some reason I was thinking the manifold to head

https://ibb.co/0CqvKws

https://ibb.co/pLr0fxm