Shims tappets, feeler blade fix ?

Any one in North west being able to shim a tappety engine ? Feeler blade fix ?

Where about are you .... ??? Not confident in doing it yourself ???

Im in North wales near Bangor , to be honest i would be confident but im a little worried about using wrong feeler blade hardness or inserting the shim in the bucket incorrectly and doing damage to the engine , im thinking i would rather pay someone who has done this before rather than doing damage , you close nomad

Im the other end of the country mate ... i dont know anybody other than bob (gtirus) who has done many of these on a large scale ... he is abit of a travel from you in essex .... hopefully somebody else might be closer if you dont want to travel down ...

GTIR-Dan wrote:to be honest i would be confident but im a little worried about using wrong feeler blade hardness

If you decide to do it, just make sure you use good quality stainless steel blades and you should be ok.

GTIR-Dan wrote:or inserting the shim in the bucket incorrectly and doing damage to the engine

You can't really insert the cut shim the wrong way as the top is the bottom and the bottom is the top, if you get what I mean. I can't remember if the joggler cutter size is 5.5 or 6.0mm, anyone know the correct size. Oh, and if you do decide to do it yourself get one of these for a clean cut.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR9.TRC2.A0.H1.XJoggler.TRS0&_nkw=Joggler&_sacat=0

GTIR-Dan wrote: im thinking i would rather pay someone who has done this before rather than doing damage , you close nomad

This sounds like a road trip to Southend coming up to meet Bob, have a day by the sea while you're there.

Is this needed for shims which are slotted in shape?
eg normal feeler is too wide to get through the narrow slot.

I havnt got a clue what you guys are looking at doing but if someone has any images... Im just being nosy for my own info!!

in GTIR heads, half the shims are slotted, and you need a modified feeler to inspect the gap;

I think your reading it wrong cosmic .... this is used as a technical bodge to reshim using the old shim and a feeler gauge cut to the right mesurement with a joggler inserted so shim is back in spec ....

Well between both of you I see what you are saying... Although my assumption would be you shim the underside of the shim... Anyway for the cost if it are you not just better to buy the right shims for the sake of a couple of quid??

The right shims for a couple of quid..... lol

Unforunatly its not that simple buddy.... Nissan are over £20 each shim these days and there is long wait I think. Even bob sells them at a tenner a shim and that's cheap.

wrc wrote:The right shims for a couple of quid..... lol

Unforunatly its not that simple buddy.... Nissan are over £20 each shim these days and there is long wait I think. Even bob sells them at a tenner a shim and that's cheap.

Whaaaaatt how fecking much.... Ok so not cheap but surely its a small amount to pay to make sure its a proper job? surely little bits of thin metal run a risk of floating around in your engine if your cutting bits of gauges down to fit....

In an ideal world yes .... but with such long back order and price its not really viable ... the cut piece is sandwiched between so shouldnt really go a miss not unless you throw a rocker i guess....

Never ever heard of anyone complain it fucked their engine people have run like this for years and years you would need to order the specific shim and clearance etc so can be a right pain but this method allows you to do it there and then.

Thanks for you replies guys , i do understand its a bit of a bodge job but like nomad mentioned its a long wait and not cheap job considering you need 16 of them in total . Its only going to be temporary till summer time but the tapping when engine is hot is just not a nice sound . Wel ive decided to tackle this myself hahaha, I dont suppose one of you guys has a slotted shim in hand to mesure the gap between for me so i can precut feelers to measure ??? Also can anyone point me in the direction of the correct blades to use to cut ?? Make or even ebay item number ?? Thanks in advance im trying to gain everything i need and tackle it in one hit

nomad wrote:I think your reading it wrong cosmic .... this is used as a technical bodge to reshim using the old shim and a feeler gauge cut to the right mesurement  with a joggler inserted so shim is back in spec ....

i get it now, this pops into the original shim to raise It and reclaim the lost clearance. Makes sense and a good idea.

Found this on youtube for anyone whos curious as to what we are talking about ...
https://youtu.be/lastgWJ4Ooo

nomad wrote:In an ideal world yes .... but with such long back order and price its not really viable ... the cut piece is sandwiched between so shouldnt really go a miss not unless you throw a rocker i guess....

Yeah I guess if its tried and tested then cool Im always curious about things like this.

Shroom Im not talking to you, you and your triple club points getting you all excited and my post deleted I blame you

How dare you I was giving genuine amazing advise but I will now keep it to myself. Have fun with your z32 mwuhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

LOL Luckily for me he cut his part of the loom so I can replicate the wiring

Also Rep point given for that You tube link Nomad, really good clear info, shame about the monotooon voice on it but still cleared my confuddled head lol

As said new shims are around £20-£28 each depending on where they are bought and many sizes have been on back order for months
We sell them for £7 each or will swap them with your ones foc, however there is a charge for our time in measuring them all up which is time consuming

We started the shim / blade fix years ago and never had any issues with it but at the very start used cheaper blades and found early on that they need to be tempered engineers quality blades or shim plate.
Now we have a good stock of various sized shims so no longer need to use that method, it was merely a stop gap fix until you obtained correct ones but theres cars been going for years with them fitted and no troubles at all, but you MUST do the bodge correctly if that's how your going to proceed

Precision shims in oz do the shim caps at sensible price & faster availability than nissan.
Grim done a thread on it & I put a link in 'useful links section.

Using shim spacers is perfectly workable solution if needed. It been around before pulsars were made & can work without issue if like mention above you use good quality shim blade & set tolerances well.
You will find after few miles gaps will increase fractionally as the cut shim pieces bed into the cap.
I done this couple times & used imperial 7/32 or 15/64 hole punch as 6mm is too big really, I used old valve to tap & bed cut shims into caps.
If building a decent engine then best buying new shims just to do job proper but if on budget or have issue sourcing parts this method works fine & is far safer than running excessive clearances.

Ahhh Mr Bob has joined in , can i ask your advice as to where i should buy or what make feelers you were using ?? Im struggling to decide and the listings dont specify stainless tempered engineers lol, also i dont suppose you could be so kind as to measure the gap in the slotted shim for me ? Just so. Can precut feelers ready to measure , thanks in advance

I think it was tempered engineers used ????

Save yourself the hassle Dan and let me know what size shims you need and il probably have them in stock so will just swap with yours