Removing ABS pump

Well as im starting getting my car ready for the road this year, I need to look at my brake problem, Ive got wildwood 4 pots on front with 285 mm discs & standard on rear but no matter how much I bleed them & try different mastercylenders & servos there still shite. I con stamp on them & theres just no bite atall they just gradualy slow you dow like your slowly stopping for a set of lights    Beginning to piss me off now as I cant find the fault.

So im thinking the fault may lie in the ABS pump itself as fluid runs threw it. So can I get rid of the ABS pump & link the brake lines together so it eliminates the pump all together?

The ABS dousnt work anyway as I don't like it  I think its dangerous, so ive took the fuse out of the ABS which I know that wont make a difference & know a lot of people do this to disable ABS

You need to take the bias valve out thats on the bulkhead really mate .... if your dropping the box out drop the engine with it wich will give you ample room to swap it over .

Do you mean drop engine forward? as engines being left in when I do the box

What pads and braided lines you running gaz ?

No he probably means when you remove the box mount rear staibilised and front one you can lower engine down slowly goes a long way to as where the crank pully is tight on other side should give plenty room to fit a non abs proportional valve

johnny gtir wrote:What pads and braided lines you running gaz ?

Red stuff in front & Nissan in rear, goodridge braided lines on the front & standard on the rear... I know I need to change the rear to braided but still should be better than what they are at the min, Going to rebuild calipers aswell.

Ahh I see, where on the bul head is the prop valve?

Looking from front right hand side is there one or is that where to fit it ? As its split originally by abs pump minds gone blank

Yeh I know there is some sort of valve there as ive seen it when ive had inlet off in the past but never took notice of what it was... So that is probably it then

Cheers Leighton ill source a none ABS one Also mine has got another sort of valve on the bulk head, just to the right of the prop valve next to fuel filter? but not 1 on that pic? Any ideas what that is?

Not sure gaz il have a look tomoz after work on my spare shell if its on there il be able to see where it goes with no engine in place .

Cheers mate your a star

No problems bud   

Could you have a vacuum leak to the brake servo so your lacking assistance from the engine?

Nope tried it mate got good vacuem to servo, sucks your finger in when you take vac pipe off servo & try it   

Brake master cylinder might have a wee hole or crack in it causin you to lose a bit of vacuum. Even tho your hose is fine you might be loosin it after the hose?

Already tried 3 mastercylenders & still the same

Does the standard brake cylinders push enough fluid through the lines to cause the 4-pots to function properly? I remember reading before that someone else was complaining about a 4-pot calliper swap being "spongey", "bite-free", and with far too much pedal travel. I think the only way they resolved the problem was putting in an aftermarket master cylinder with a much bigger piston (i.e. providing more oil flow). I'm not an expert on this, but I just remembered reading about this from some other unlucky brake-upgrader. I'll try to find the link, but for your sake I hope I'm wrong!   

Cheers,
Dave

I had hispec four pots on the front of the rotbox and didnt notice a big problem wif the brakes. Hispec might have smaller pistons than yours????

Mine are the older wildwood 4 pots with the smaller pistons, I cant see it being master cylinder as other people don't have a problem & Bob drove the car on the nurburgring trip last year & he said the mastercylender was working. I think I just need to rebuild them & see if that sorts it...
But when you pump the pedal you can hear them creeking like the pads actualy are pushing hard against the disks so im baffled?

And they don't get any better when hot so something isn't right

Have you got any wear on the brake pedal pivot or where the pedal connects to the master cylinder?

Nope checked that when I swapped servo... pedal feels fine & as it should but just no bite when I hit the brakes & the don't lock up if I hit them hard, just gradualy stops?

Wouldnt be your pads at the front would it? Might be worth stickin a set in to see?

yep gonna try that first I think

i would say try a different pad up front, something with more initial bite. its also possible u've glazed the rotors.


i removed abs last year.. but didnt use the non abs prop valve.  i also experienced the no stopping issue with abs and the stock mc, i found the pedal overly long and soft even after bleeding and always felt like the car didnt want to stop

while motor was out i also upgraded the master cylinder to a 1inch bmc gave a firmer, shorter, and heavier (more effort required) pedal which is what i wanted as i left foot brake a fair amount

lock up happens if u stab the pedal and its much easier to modulate lockup

my setup
1 inch nissan altima abs master cylinder
ate super blue fluid
abs removed, still using abs prop valve
master cylinder brace/stopper

fronts
wilwood 4 piston
11inch disc slotted (92-96 prelude SRV redrilled)
hawk hp+ pad (originally hawk hps, then wilwood bp20s) the hp+ give fantastic initial bite and hold up well for autox duty and aggressive street driving.  probably my fave pad for the kind of competition i do, won't hold up for track day tho.
stainless lines

rears
stock caliper
95+ maxima rear brake pad carrier
11inch disc slotted (from 95+ maxima redrilled or 2004+ nissan sentra ser specV)
hawk hps pad
stainless lines