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Tyres, Brakes and Suspension:
Standard brakes are only “just” adequate, so an uprated set-up suggests a clued-up previous owner. Lack of grip and squealing probably means the wrong tyres. As standard, it should be on Bridgestone tyres. Regular kerbing will knock out tracking and show up as wear on the tyres edges. Listen to rumbling wheel bearings. A knocking from the front could mean worn suspension bushes or knackered struts. Four wheel alignment is vital if you want to make the most of your tyres.
Interior:
A minor gripe can be erratic electric windows on the driver’s side, possibly due to faulty connectors (A new one is starting to become harder to find). Brake fluid on the driver’s footwell carpet means master-cylinder seal failure. Faulty air-conditioning, when fitted, means either a simple re-gas or a new exchanger is needed.
Wind noise from the doors at higher speeds is a door-seal problem or the door hangers. A noisy roof, which has come detached from the roof frame is a very common problem and sounds like a metal rattle (Bugger of a job to sort out as you have to remove the headlining!)
Bodywork:
Look out for evidence of accident damage and a poor standard of work. Also the car’s are not underselaed in Japan, so ask for evidence of this. Rusty rear arches are a common problem because of the lack of underseal so check for any underlying rust coming through.
Clutch:
A well-used GTI-R can easily eat its clutch, a slipping clutch is often found on cars running uprated boost. Tuned cars certainly need a better clutch. Make sure you go on a high speed run and check it doesn’t slip in 5th gear as this is puttinig the most load on it (Also drive it whens its cold and put it in 5th gear and put your foot to the floor - If the clutch is on its way out, then its most likely to do it now)
Turbo:
Lots of blue smoke on the overrun may indicate a blown or failing unit.
Transmission:
Difficult gear change, especially at high revs, is probably due to the synchromesh. Listen out for nasty noises. Some cars can clunk into 5th gear when you are changing at highish revs, this can be down to poor gearbox oil and putting in (for example) some Redline MT90 usually stops this.
Engine:
The Pulsar is a tough little nut because there’s a timing chain keeping that 2.0-litre lump together. If oil pressure is slow to build up, it probably means a worn crank even though its not yet rattly. A rattly top end may mean that the cams need re-shimming. At £16 per shim, that could be a bill for £300+ before you start on the labour charges. (Though be aware as its chain driven, it can be quite a noisy little lump anyway)
If the car does not rev above 3000rpm there could be an engine management or sensor problem. Modified engines are not uncommon, and might mean trouble unless the work has been carried out to a high standard. An after-market dump valve is an obvious give away, as is a boost pressure over 0.7bar. About 280bhp is reckoned to be the safe maximum for continued reliability, but only if the fuelling is set up right. Hopefully, there is supporting documentation as to what has been done and by whom. Play safe and always use Optimax or BP Ultimate with an import or modified example, octane booster may also be a plus.
Expect about 200+miles to a tank (24mpg ish) if you drive reasonably steady, down to well under 100 if you drive it hard all the time.
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UK SPEC NISSAN SUNNY 2.0 GTI-R:
Supplied with 14-inch 6.0J Alloy wheels and 195/55R14 tyres. Body-Coloured bumpers and roof spoiler, side skirts, front spoiler and tinted glass. Electric mirrors, front windows and central locking. Three-spoke adjustable steering wheel, adjustable driver’s seat and split/folding rear seat. Just 70 officially imported.
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JAPANESE SPEC NISSAN PULSAR 2.0 GTI-R:
Equipment as per the UK model plus air-conditioning also added extras are an umbrella, toolkit and flare. Available in grey, graphite, white, red and black.
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JAPANESE SPEC NISSAN PULSAR 2.0 GTI-R (RB Model):
Lightweight rally version of the GTI-R with no air-conditioning or electric refinements, boring interior and a close ratio gearbox with steel wheels!
Some RBs do come with some options, for example it may have a rear wiper or air con. Not all RBs are Ivory white.
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SPECS:
0-60 can be done in about 5.5secs (with a perfect launch)
Pulsar is 222bhp (227ps) standard (normally runs on 100octane fuel for higher power)
Sunny is 215bhp (220ps) standard
Top speed is 144mph on standard car
Top speed is 127mph on RB model (close ratio gearbox, rpm maxes out in 5th)
Standard brakes are only “just” adequate, so an uprated set-up suggests a clued-up previous owner. Lack of grip and squealing probably means the wrong tyres. As standard, it should be on Bridgestone tyres. Regular kerbing will knock out tracking and show up as wear on the tyres edges. Listen to rumbling wheel bearings. A knocking from the front could mean worn suspension bushes or knackered struts. Four wheel alignment is vital if you want to make the most of your tyres.
Interior:
A minor gripe can be erratic electric windows on the driver’s side, possibly due to faulty connectors (A new one is starting to become harder to find). Brake fluid on the driver’s footwell carpet means master-cylinder seal failure. Faulty air-conditioning, when fitted, means either a simple re-gas or a new exchanger is needed.
Wind noise from the doors at higher speeds is a door-seal problem or the door hangers. A noisy roof, which has come detached from the roof frame is a very common problem and sounds like a metal rattle (Bugger of a job to sort out as you have to remove the headlining!)
Bodywork:
Look out for evidence of accident damage and a poor standard of work. Also the car’s are not underselaed in Japan, so ask for evidence of this. Rusty rear arches are a common problem because of the lack of underseal so check for any underlying rust coming through.
Clutch:
A well-used GTI-R can easily eat its clutch, a slipping clutch is often found on cars running uprated boost. Tuned cars certainly need a better clutch. Make sure you go on a high speed run and check it doesn’t slip in 5th gear as this is puttinig the most load on it (Also drive it whens its cold and put it in 5th gear and put your foot to the floor - If the clutch is on its way out, then its most likely to do it now)
Turbo:
Lots of blue smoke on the overrun may indicate a blown or failing unit.
Transmission:
Difficult gear change, especially at high revs, is probably due to the synchromesh. Listen out for nasty noises. Some cars can clunk into 5th gear when you are changing at highish revs, this can be down to poor gearbox oil and putting in (for example) some Redline MT90 usually stops this.
Engine:
The Pulsar is a tough little nut because there’s a timing chain keeping that 2.0-litre lump together. If oil pressure is slow to build up, it probably means a worn crank even though its not yet rattly. A rattly top end may mean that the cams need re-shimming. At £16 per shim, that could be a bill for £300+ before you start on the labour charges. (Though be aware as its chain driven, it can be quite a noisy little lump anyway)
If the car does not rev above 3000rpm there could be an engine management or sensor problem. Modified engines are not uncommon, and might mean trouble unless the work has been carried out to a high standard. An after-market dump valve is an obvious give away, as is a boost pressure over 0.7bar. About 280bhp is reckoned to be the safe maximum for continued reliability, but only if the fuelling is set up right. Hopefully, there is supporting documentation as to what has been done and by whom. Play safe and always use Optimax or BP Ultimate with an import or modified example, octane booster may also be a plus.
Expect about 200+miles to a tank (24mpg ish) if you drive reasonably steady, down to well under 100 if you drive it hard all the time.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
UK SPEC NISSAN SUNNY 2.0 GTI-R:
Supplied with 14-inch 6.0J Alloy wheels and 195/55R14 tyres. Body-Coloured bumpers and roof spoiler, side skirts, front spoiler and tinted glass. Electric mirrors, front windows and central locking. Three-spoke adjustable steering wheel, adjustable driver’s seat and split/folding rear seat. Just 70 officially imported.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
JAPANESE SPEC NISSAN PULSAR 2.0 GTI-R:
Equipment as per the UK model plus air-conditioning also added extras are an umbrella, toolkit and flare. Available in grey, graphite, white, red and black.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
JAPANESE SPEC NISSAN PULSAR 2.0 GTI-R (RB Model):
Lightweight rally version of the GTI-R with no air-conditioning or electric refinements, boring interior and a close ratio gearbox with steel wheels!
Some RBs do come with some options, for example it may have a rear wiper or air con. Not all RBs are Ivory white.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
SPECS:
0-60 can be done in about 5.5secs (with a perfect launch)
Pulsar is 222bhp (227ps) standard (normally runs on 100octane fuel for higher power)
Sunny is 215bhp (220ps) standard
Top speed is 144mph on standard car
Top speed is 127mph on RB model (close ratio gearbox, rpm maxes out in 5th)