Think your panicking over nothing
Yes there's being careful but not to the point of having a pooh fit over start up
Anyway for people's benefit I've gone more in depth with some of the run in procedure
First off you need to check you have no open vacuum pipes and that all electrical connections are good and secure if your not sure where vacuum pipes go from the rear of plenum etc then just blank them with a screw or bolt so they don't drawi in air.
Secondly turn the engine over with no plugs in and with injector resistor pack disconnected so fuel does not get pumped into cylinders. Turn engine over as you normally would during start up but for say 2 bursts of 20secs by then the oil pressure will be up and all moving parts lubricated.
Once you have done that it's then time to fit the spark plugs and reconnect the resistor multi plug.
Now your ready to fire her up:face:
Important bit now.........
New cams or not, Do not Rev engine to 2.5k from the very off, just start it and keep it idling for a minute or so not forgetting p/s pump bleeding (go lock to lock 2-3 times if you forget this you could run pump dry and damage it).
Closely monitor for any oil/water leaks if alls ok
then pick the revs up to around 2.5k then around 3k to run/bed cams assuming you have new ones fitted.
It's a good idea when doing this to have an observer watching underside of the car and engine bay just to make sure you have no nasty knocks or have sprung a leak.
After around 5 mins of running them in shut the engine off and let it cool, you'll then need to remove rad cap and leave it off for around 15 mins whilst you have a cuppa admiring your hard work and hopefully good fortune so far
Then very slowly fill the rad, just let the water trickle in so you don't put air pockets into the system (also helps whilst doing this gently squeezing the bottom hose) once rad is full start the car again but leave the rad cap loose or off as this will let any air pockets escape as soon as they get pumped round the system (the air will automatically go towards the opening) if the temps get up a bit and it starts to bubble out the top don't put the cap on just turn car off and leave it for a couple mins, slowly refill and start car again.
Once your reasonably happy that most of the air is out the fans should be cutting in by then you can then replace rad cap and take car on a gentle run (ideally close by) just a mile from r two then back on the driveway shut it off and check for leaks etc, if alls good leave car for an hour or so to cool right down then come back and check coolant level again in rad as it will more than likely be low so top up if necessary.
Few things to note
1.Set distributor so the bolt is roughly in the middle of the adjustment slot initially, that will be fine until you time her properly.
2.Expect smoke on start up and for probably the first 5 miles of driving as oil takes a while to burn off anything you have touched so don't panic it's normal
3. On initial drive keep an ear out for strange noises and keep an eye on all the gauges
4. Remember you have built the engine but many other components are likely to have been replaced too so make sure all things such as transmission, clutch, driveshafts, suspension, wheels and so forth are all torqued up and that there are no knocks from anything...........So easy to forget these bits when your mind is focused on your engine, But engine is no use with a mangled car body around it because wheel or something has come adrift so double check everything.
As said previously.........remove top off ecu to make sure it's all standard and not mapped or generically chipped.
When setting ignition base timing during run in set it to 18 degrees not 20 this will give you a safety margin
Drop oil and filter after 40-50 miles and check drained oil for any unusual fragments (good idea to have a magnetic drain bolt) to catch small metal particles during bedding in process, also smell the oil to make sure it does not reek of fuel (that's a big killer on new engines whilst cutting in) you would have no doubt have noticed black smoke from exhaust more than likely prior to this though.
Don't get tempted to race people whilst your running it in..........Sod's law that every booger wants to race you during this time, you have to bite your lip and say to yourself 'No I'm not playing'
think of the money and time it's cost you!
Almost 2 in morning now after writing this so reckon I deserve a Rep point lol
But seriously it's nothing to worry about guys as long as you built it correctly 'which I'm sure you have'
stick to what's written above you will soon be flying along with a big grin on your faces.
If any of you aren't sure about your fuelling then We can check it on Dyno for your own peace of mind but it's not really necessary during run in unless black smoke is present and car smells like it's over fuelling.
Good Luck all
Home
