My New R

[b]So thought i post up a couple of pics of the new R, its a project, it has a few bits of rust on rear arches, one bit has just cracked through,
ive got it booked in for the start of next month to have both rear arches done,

Things to do so far are:
Fix Rev counter
Sort out knocking Tein coilover NSF
Re spray front bumper
Re underseal underside

https://s200.photobucket.com/user/rb200/library/#/user/rb200/library/?page=1&_suid=136535749939307633826962152228

First few pics on there

that rust looks rather odd, usually just get a bit of bubbling not a huge crack, looks tidy otherwise, take a good look at the sills, under rear bumper & rear suspension turrets

im gonna give it a good going over check for rust everywhere and repair where needed

Well done paul .... even in the right thread keep up the good work and keep us updated with the progress of the old girl

So got home and thought id do a compression check on the engine just to make sure its healthy before i start to modify it more,

All good 155psi across all 4 cylinders so happy with that

yep that's very good paul
at least you know cylinders are all healthy

On another note my expansion tank has been removed and now just runs the overspill from the rad to the floor, does anyone else do this or do all you keep yours?

on my 300 i had the same setup with no problems

The overspill tank is actually an expansion tank, you do need it as when the engine warms it pushes air and water out and when it cools it draws coolant back in, it sort of purges the air out of the car as it is used....fit one or risk air locks and a buggered engine.

Great just another thing to sort out lol always seem to rectify other people work when getting a new car

Can you buy like a forge tank n pipe work or will it just be a case of sourcing the standard tank n piping?

Also does anyone have a diagram of the pipe run so I know where it connects ect

You can buy an aftermarket tank but its expensive ..... there is only one pipe that goes to the tank the tank sits behind around the headlight area depends on if you have a fmic fitted .

Yup have a fmi fitted where does the pipe come from that fits to it? I guess then the over spill runs to the tank aswell from the rad?

I picked up an expansion tank from the scrappy for a fiver, and the pipe that runs from the radiator cap overflow just plumbs into the bottom of the tank. I used one from an Almera they're virtually identicle

Is that it then just the over flow runs to it? Seems abit pointless to me as I thought there would be another pipe that then plumbs back into the coolant system like a conventional expansion tank,

Just looked at the forge ones looks like they have pipe outlets?

Just the one pipe mate from the radiator to expansion tank

my pulsar has no expansion tank, i dont really see why it needs it? coolant level stays exactly fine, no issues for me so far.

beau_1990 wrote:my pulsar has no expansion tank, i dont really see why it needs it? coolant level stays exactly fine, no issues for me so far.

Just been explained, under heat and pressure it blows from the radiator in to the expansion tank, when cooling it creates a vacuum and pulls from the expansion tank back into the radiator.....it's why the radiator cap has a vacuum valve in it.........if you want an air lock in your engine and localised heat spots in the cylinder head then crack on you have been warned.

yep as the man said, it does need the expansion to purge air from the system or when it cools youll be drawing air back In as opposed to coolant from the reservoir

Dan the Gearboxman wrote:

beau_1990 wrote:my pulsar has no expansion tank, i dont really see why it needs it? coolant level stays exactly fine, no issues for me so far.

Just been explained, under heat and pressure it blows from the radiator in to the expansion tank, when cooling it creates a vacuum and pulls from the expansion tank back into the radiator.....it's why the radiator cap has a vacuum valve in it.........if you want an air lock in your engine and localised heat spots in the cylinder head then crack on you have been warned.

i understand how they work, but my coolant level doesnt ever change so would the tank do anything, il have to get it fixed either way though.

Put it another way, how do you know that you have not lost coolent and now have air locks in your cylinder head.

From quoting dans response

"It would prevent air locks and localised heat spots, which can lead to a cracked head"

Dan the Gearboxman wrote:Put it another way, how do you know that you have not lost coolent and now have air locks in your cylinder head.

that is true mate! il keep a close eye on it until its sorted, i do keep checking because i am a paranoid person, im always squeezing the hoses to make sure theres no air in the system and it does seem to be fine.

to be fair beau that's not gonna tell you anything by squeezing hoses as youll simply just be pushing any airlocks back and forth as its primarily a sealed system.
will cost you a fiver for a headertank surely that's a fiver well spent in relation to what it could cost you

Nice weather protection strip. where did u hook up with this ?

Love the IR

Thats not a pulsar strip .... you could get it carbon dipped though ...

Not sure which bit you mean by weather protection strip?