As I said I would this is my new toy :)

That's a true statement (Quality) I don't think it would wash.. She knows it has issues and I shouldn't be driving it until I have done the engine so she knows I need to spend on the engine. Wheels can wait for a while

Standard cams would be fine for 400hp build, standard cams are another one of the better parts really, If cams measure up to be good order I would consider reusing them & spend funds on new oem valve springs, valve seals, oil pump, vernier cam pulleys, blueprint water pump, all new oem water hoses front & rear. Money also best spent on quality internal parts as required & quality machine work & balancing, along with exhaust manifold porting & good turbo elbow & a decent turbo such as gtx2863r, decent intercooler of either recored top mount with water injection or front mount. Finish that off with good mapping & it will be rapid & reliable & not silly money to complete or maintain.
Transmission is other concern, sensible clutch helps such as CC sprung segmented disc or CC sprung 6 puk are about 2 best in price & multi-use being good manners for road but still tough enough for track & bit of drag use.
Looks quite clean so should be a fun & rewarding build, don't see many red ones these days either.
Those comp wheels & a bumper guard would look good, 16" is better size really & brakes around 300mm tops enough as all the extra unsprung weight of huge unneeded discs don't help handling & 17"/profiles not great on poor roads .
Keeping it quite standard looking & not chopping it up for a front mount will also help retain good resale value so if need sell up in future you will sell quicker & for better price . See yours already got front mount so decision made for you on that one .

Mr B wrote:Standard cams would be fine for 400hp build, standard cams are another one of the better parts really, If cams measure up to be good order I would consider reusing them & spend funds on new oem valve springs, valve seals, oil pump, vernier cam pulleys, blueprint water pump, all new oem water hoses front & rear. Money also best spent on quality internal parts as required & quality machine work & balancing, along with exhaust manifold porting & good turbo elbow & a decent turbo such as gtx2863r, decent intercooler of either recored top mount with water injection or front mount. Finish that off with good mapping & it will be rapid & reliable & not silly money to complete or maintain.
Transmission is other concern, sensible clutch helps such as CC sprung segmented disc or CC sprung 6 puk are about 2 best in price & multi-use being good manners for road but still tough enough for track & bit of drag use.
Looks quite clean so should be a fun & rewarding build, don't see many red ones these days either.
Those comp wheels & a bumper guard would look good, 16" is better size really & brakes around 300mm tops enough as all the extra unsprung weight of huge unneeded discs don't help handling & 17"/profiles not great on poor roads .
Keeping it quite standard looking & not chopping it up for a front mount will also help retain good resale value so if need sell up in future you will sell quicker & for better price . See yours already got front mount so decision made for you on that one .

This... This is exactly the kind of info I like and please don't think that's a compliant at any one else as it certainly isnt guys

I need to check everything, nothing is set in stone at the minute its just ideas, Car needs a new door and a front wing, Door is rusted under the moulding and not really a repair job! Wing has had a piss poor filler job done on it at some stage and their is the minor bubbling issue on the one rear arch to resolve at some stage.

As I have previously said its had work done but im struggling to find out exactly what..

MR B, your absolutely right they are unforgiving and terrible on back roads, I have 18s on my other motor and its certainly interesting. I would like to stick with 16s but again I need to work a few things out as I go, do I sell 8 pots and buy something smaller as 8 pot is total overkill for the roads on a Sunday.

I was thinking about replacing OEM hoses for black silicone ones keeps it looking clean and should be reliable enough as I am led to believe OEM pipes are becoming like hens teeth now a days for some of them?.
Front mount yup I haven't got a huge choice, but would like a standard uncut bumper.

This is cruel, All I want to do is start but so much research to do and so much to learn, along with a house that's in first place at the moment.

A door & wing will be easy & cheap to find, you may even find right colour if don't rush.
for brakes I would look at 286 or 304mm 6pot versions.
Handling is worst thing about pulsars, they are super rapid & power delivery can be insane but handling is junk so being sensible in handling areas pays you back big time.
16" wheel on road is big as I would go, modena front diff is also a huge help & money well spent if can afford it.
I would deffo use oem rear block water hoses, they not that expensive & still available & they fit perfect & last 25 years plus, fronts could be silicone as easily checked & replaced but rears want be done during rebuild & forgot about & silicone is not all it raved to be.
New bumpers are somewhere around £180 mark . you may find uncut one but it getting harder these days .
Main thing is seeing how good head, block & crank is when stripped. 400hp is pretty easy on these, don't waste money on stuff not overly beneficial as some cash spare is always handy for possible gearbox issues or early running teething problems .
Bang a new CC clutch in along with reinforced fork & renew fork ball with driftworks one if worn, then it won't let you down later on plus you get full enjoyment from new clutch. ones you got can be sold to regain some of the cost.
Don't get greedy with power either, sticking around 380 to 420 will be reliable & fecking rapid if done right.
the forums google search bar on main index page is pretty good since sorted robot text file, just keep keywords minimal & you should dig up most stuff you need.
Everyone on here friendly too & will help directly or link to topics if you stuck.
Have fun ...

will the 304 brakes fit 16s? Im about to put the 8 pot up for swaps as they are 330mm of 328 if your being precise.

Depends on what wheels you have. The design et on the wheels and how the caliper design sits.

I have had 4 pot Hispec 320mm discs on 16" rota's

Cheers shroom

looking to swap these and just wanted to double check sizes, I am set on compomotives bud, I already have whats pictured (Silver OZ's) but I want the rally dished version

http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t6112-330mm-8-pot-ksport-disc-calipers-and-mounts-swaps-only

If you are buying new comps then you will be able to spec a decent ET so they have enough room the the brakes. The only downside is if you go too low on the ET the wheels can scrub on everything lol

Well its been a long day, at the beginning of the post I was going to rebuild my own engine but a great spec one came up at sensible money so I purchased that instead.

I've just spent the day fitting it And it's almost done, just gotta fir all the vacuum pipes, intercooler and associated pipework. New ECU and god knows what else I've currently forgotten.

Changed my mind on the breaks and down sized to 280s but I've got a feeling as time goes on that might change again.

I'll get some more pics up at some stage, car has a few issues really and to say I was a bit miffed when I got it on the ramps was an understatement. But hopefully fingers crossed I've secured decent dry storage so I've got no excuse of bad weather to not do the work.

What was the issues fella ??? Dont forget your fuel pump also ..

Yeah fuel pump is on the list

Chassis is battered, salvageable but looks like it's been dropped on speed bump!! Needless to say my heart sank at first. I've got pics and it's turned into a what's going to be a big project.

Get a decent pump don't scrimp and buy a warlbro though

Your be suprised on how many numptys have jacked them up from centre rails totaly mullers them same with the sills really makes a right mess .....becarefull of alot of the fake walbros on the likes of ebay ....

Sucks to hear about the rails. Your R isnt alone, so many are butchered underneath unfortunately.

Im glad it's not just mine, sorry guys but it does make.me feel a touch better

Yeah it's a walbros, or it best had be or I'm sending it back to Stu

Well its been a busy day again in the garage again today, Engine is now in (feeling pleased) how ever it wont run.. Bare with me and ill give you my low down and it should save a billion questions..

So firstly here is the current finished all be it un tidy fitted beast... I am very open to comments and suggestions but it is a working progress so go easy I know the oil cooler pipes are going to get trapped if I close the bonnet I did move them first



So Starting issue... First off I found the gearbox plug issue that I had seen somewhere on here... Sorted that and checked fuses, found a 10 amp one out.. unsure if it was related but changed it anyway.

Then opened up the idle valve a bit more as it tried to fire but just wouldn't go... Had no joy, had a coffee and a think.. The though hang on are all the pipes correct?

Found this one off..


... So ive done I diagram or two to show where everything runs
Now I did have photo evidence of where all these pipes ran to but my bloody phone died on Thursday so lost them all.

Catch can and waste gate...


Im just doing the others now...

I think this is the turbo solenoid (Vac pipes)?


This next one is the last pipe as part of the loop in the pic above...



I openly admit ive probably bitten off more than I can chew by this point but ive got to learn some how..

I also found a pipe right under the throttle sensor that was off and hanging loose.. not sure where that goes and its really bloody hard to get a pic... Im wondering did it go to the pipe in the first pic that heads off somewhere round the back of the manifold..

Do you want me to come up tomm after work to help out????

Im guessing that this means its all to pot lol

If your free and not busy bud yes please as ive tried all sorts on top of whats been listed...

I thought I may have flooded It so disconnected injectors and took plugs out turned it over several times and made sh1t bit of difference, it was running when it cam out and im almost certain its the dam little pipes ive got wrong

I'll text you tomm once I know what time I'll be free?

Cool beans man

did you get my PM...

So now im home and have my laptop here in front of me... I think I have found a good part of my issue... the boost solenoid is defo going to the wrong place and possibly the carbon canister isn't plumbed in correctly as well..

Checking the diagrams against my engine http://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t895-diagrams the pipe on top of the wastegate I think is wrong.. it should connect to the boost solenoid the boost solenoid is also connected wrong as it should go to one of the vac pipes under/back of the plenum. Currently its not.

Sorry for the ramble im trying to figure it out, if im on the wrong track then stop me.

back to the drawing board tomorrow after work this time with diagrams in hand.

You fitted the new Ecu ?

johnny gtir wrote:You fitted the new Ecu ?

Yup once ingot the bloody original out

So it turns over fine just doesnt fire .... have you checked for fuel and spark .... i know obviously you have vac issues also ....