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new engine run in procedure

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pulsarmoley
watoga
fred05
nomad
jaypjay
GTI-R US
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1new engine run in procedure Empty new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 10:42 am

GTI-R US

GTI-R US
Management
Management

Ok guys been asked to stick this up by a couple of people although we give our run in procedure with engines when sold so here it is.
it may differ from other things you see on the net but I don't care what they write as this seems to work fine for everyone so im basing it on what I do with my own engine if just been rebuilt.

on assembly
If building the engine yourself use an engine build lube to coat bearings this will prevent any wear on initial start up

initial start up
Once the engine has been fitted youll need to use either a running in oil or do as we do and use 15/w40 mineral based oil for the first 1000-1500 miles.
disable engine to prevent it from firing up straight away (on a gtir we unplug the injector resistor pack mounted on n/s inner wing).
crank the engine over for around 30 secs to get the oil pressure up.
plug the resistor pack in then she should be ready to fire up.
If new cams have been fitted youll need to hold the revs up to run these in as per there spec sheet but we will base this on used cams run in.
once engine has fired up leave it idling and immediately check for any oil and water leaks.
make sure coolant in rad is topped up and leave the rad cap off until up to temp and air bubbles have worked there way back to the rad and dispersed (there is a bleed point on thermostat housing but you don't normally need to use this).
Make sure the fans are cutting in at required temperature then turn the engine off and allow it to cool for half an hour or so.
you will then notice once its cooled that the coolant level in the rad will drop so fill it up again to the brim and replace the rad cap.

initial drive
Take the car out on an initial drive around the block (keep it local), do not drive it hard just a steady pace, then return back to your house and check once again for oil and coolant leaks. You will notice a lot of oily smoke from under the bonnet and the cockpit may smell of burning oil but this is normal as its just oil burning off parts you have had your greasy mitts on but that should all clear up within a few miles.
Once you are happy that there are no leaks and everything seems to be working ok including all your engine ancilliaries, then you can carry on with the run in procedure.

driving
Do around 50 miles in the car at no more than 3k rpm with lots of gear changes and use engine braking also (country lanes are ideal)
once you have done the 50 miles drop the engine oil and change the filter as this is the initial cutting in period and you don't want little bits of metal floating around in the oil. replace oil with 15/w40 mineral again then proceed until you cover 500 miles.

500 mile
Once you have driven to this you will need to drop the engine oil again and replace oil and filter once again using a mineral based oil.
also you can up the rev limit to around 3.5k rpm until the next period............remember lots of gear changing and engine braking, DO NOT think you can cheat by holding a constant speed on a motorway as this is a poor way of running an engine in which could result in glazed cylinders and blowby from piston rings.

1000-1500mile
Ok once you reach mileage between the above you have as good as run the engine in so your now ready to drop the oil and use fully synthetic based oil such as 10/w50.
so drain oil and change filter again then add the synthetic oil.
this is also a good time to check engine over and make sure there are no bolts, hose clips or anything else that may have vibrated loose so give engine a general once over and good eyeball.
After that your ready to roll with the boost, but I would strongly advise getting vehicle on a rolling road to have the fuelling and ignition checked before you do this as poor ignition / fuelling, excess boost can very quickly destroy a new engine (as ive found myself on more than one occasion) so paramount that the checks are performed prior to slapping your foot down.
The rr operator will set the boost to what he considers is a safe level for the ignition and fuelling your running, if he notices a problem with either then he should inform you that the boost should not be raised until the problem is rectified.

Also it is a very bad idea to run an engine in with a big turbo fitted or lots of aftermarket parts, far better to run in on a stock ecu, turbo etc.
the reason I say this is because if the car was previously mapped to run big power then it will be mapped very much on the rich side to help keep cylinder temps down and prevent any det on pistons, now this is a good thing on a used engine which has been run in and has miles under its belt so to speak BUT on a brand new engine overfuelling and aftermarket mapping can be a real killer during in the cutting in period of the rings as it can borewash the oil from the cylinders and allow cylinder temps to rise to a point where ring gaps will close up and heat is transferred to heatspots on pistons (normally near gudgeon pin and ringlands) which can then easily melt a forged piston, plus you also run the risk of spinning crank journal bearings due to fuel mixed with engine oil which can break down oil viscosity at higher oil temps.

Last of all as this is turning into a bit of an essay lol
Do keep a close eye on oil and water levels throughout the entire run-in procedure as you may find the engine burns some oil until rings are bedded in correctly.
In a lot of cases its not the engine that destroys itself its normally either driver error (not following run-in procedure, mis-shifting at high rpm, inpatience etc) or due to an ancilliary part failiure that goes un-noticed and is left. Any ancilliary item such as defective turbo, sensors not working correctly, air leaks, faulty injectors, faulty afm or wiring WILL affect fuelling and this in turn could result in premature engine failiure so its vital that everything is checked (especially on a 20 odd year old car with age related parts fitted).

That's about it guys
any Qs then fire away
remember this is my own run in procedure and advice given from what I have learnt in the past and had experience from, youll read other varying versions on what you should and should not do so its upto you which way you wish to proceed with running in an engine, but I find if you stick basically to whats written above then you wont go far wrong Wink

http://www.gti-r-us.co.uk www.force500.com

2new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 10:56 am

jaypjay

jaypjay

Good on you bob. I need these walk throughs and cant be more appreciative unless I kiss you Wink

3new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 11:09 am

GTI-R US

GTI-R US
Management
Management

no problem, il try do a few more as and when I get the time

theres loads of stuff such as head rebuilds, shimming and anything else that anyone wants to know il do my best to answer in my own words.
only thing I cant do a write up on is gearbox rebuilds as I know booger all about them other than the basics and they frankly do not interest me either.

http://www.gti-r-us.co.uk www.force500.com

4new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 11:17 am

jaypjay

jaypjay

Yeh I would just send my gearbox off the the professionals personally. There is a limit to my expertise considering im self taught.

My next task ill be doing a full restoration on the bottom end as well as dropping the sub frame for updated bushings. If you could shed some light on this task before I commit I can hopefully take it on board and do a detailed how to for members and future members.

Cheers

5new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 11:38 am

nomad

nomad
Admin
Admin

Great write up bob .... will do a few more how to's when i get 5mins ...

6new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 7:14 pm

fred05

fred05
french connection
french connection

What about an engine, like the one in my car, which has been only start des times in 2 years? A car parked for a long time (almost 1year Maybe more)?
May i need to drive like 500 miles thing?

7new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 7:20 pm

watoga

watoga
ecu technician
ecu technician

Thanks a lot for posting this Bob. Great read and well written! I find it very interesting that everyone has their own run-in procedure, often with the approaches varying by huge margins. An example of a more "aggressive" approach can be found here:

ALTERNATIVE RUN-IN PROCEDURE

When you are turning over an engine that's been standing for a while (or new), you mention:

"disable engine to prevent it from firing up straight away (on a gtir we unplug the injector resistor pack mounted on n/s inner wing)."

Would you also take out the spark plugs to remove compression? Or is this only necessary for an engine that's been sitting for a long time? Also, during the first 500 miles would you stay off boost entirely? Would you enforce this by leaving the turbo wastegate open? Or just be careful while driving to make sure you stay off boost?

Thanks again for the write up! Enjoyed reading it.
Dave

http://star.pst.qub.ac.uk/~dbj

8new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 8:18 pm

pulsarmoley

pulsarmoley
moderator
moderator

No you should never run the car with the wastegate left open, I asked Bob this when running mine in. I think it messes with the fuelling?

9new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 22nd August 2013, 9:56 pm

GTI-R US

GTI-R US
Management
Management

yes as pete said its not a good idea to leave wastegate open as the ecu is mapped for boost pressure and you will not be creating any so the car could end up running way too rich which you definitely do not want.
its fine to bring on a bit of boost upto the rpm run-in limit, you have not got to treat the engine with kid gloves but on the other hand you don't want to be going crazy with it either.

I knew about that run in procedure years ago and imho its not advisable. I say that purely due to the age of the attached parts, old wiring and everything else age related on a 20+ year old car.
if something is not quite right your not giving yourself an opportunity to correct it and as said an engine can quickly go kaboom if the ecu is not receiving the relevant information from the various sensors etc.
if it was a normally aspirated engine then you can get away with a lot more due to a linear load being placed on all the moving parts.


plugs can be removed whilst cranking engine over as this will take any un-necessary load off the crank until oil pressure is up, this also applies to an engine that's been stood for some time.

when I get a bit more time il do a quick write up on engines which have been left standing and for those that are planning on being laid up for a considerable amount of time.

http://www.gti-r-us.co.uk www.force500.com

10new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 24th January 2014, 10:03 am

watoga

watoga
ecu technician
ecu technician

GTI-R US wrote:plugs can be removed whilst cranking engine over as this will take any un-necessary load off the crank until oil pressure is up, this also applies to an engine that's been stood for some time. when I get a bit more time il do a quick write up on engines which have been left standing and for those that are planning on being laid up for a considerable amount of time.

OK, so before I completely remove ALL of my interior wiring (to remake a custom loom), I want to first make sure my GTiR starts and runs. It hasn't been turned on in about 16 months, but ran fine beforehand. Would this be a suitable procedure???

1 - Remove spark plugs
2 - Spray WD40 down the plug holes
3 - Leave overnight
4 - With the plugs still removed turn the engine over on the starter until oil pressure can be seen to build
5 - Insert spark plugs
6 - Start engine

Does this sound wise? Or have I missed something? Any advice will be listened too so please tell it like it is  Very Happy 
Many thanks,
Dave

http://star.pst.qub.ac.uk/~dbj

11new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 24th January 2014, 12:49 pm

GTI-R US

GTI-R US
Management
Management

yep that's pretty much spot on really dave
may not be necessary with the wd but I would as a precautionary measure and certainly will do no harm

you've just about covered it so got nothing I can really add to that

http://www.gti-r-us.co.uk www.force500.com

12new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 24th January 2014, 1:34 pm

watoga

watoga
ecu technician
ecu technician

GTI-R US wrote:yep that's pretty much spot on really dave
may not be necessary with the wd but I would as a precautionary measure and certainly will do no harm

you've just about covered it so got nothing I can really add to that

Great! Thank you very much!

I pray it starts as then I have to tackle the wiring mess............... I would also like to take this opportunity to vent about the bloody alarm system too: ALL of the wires for the alarm are black. However, when purchased all the black wires had coloured tags so you could easily see which alarm wires needed to be connected to the fuel pump, ignition, door locks, etc. But once the alarm was fully installed, all these helpful coloured tags were removed................. So now I've got a pile of black wires to sort; some carrying +12V as the previous monkey ran out of red wire, and some replacing the helpful colour-coded ignition/fuel/lock wires  Evil or Very Mad This is going to be annoying.....................

Cheers!
Dave

http://star.pst.qub.ac.uk/~dbj

13new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 24th January 2014, 1:46 pm

GTI-R US

GTI-R US
Management
Management

yes youll find that most professionally installed alarm / immobiliser systems all work with just black wires dave.
they do this to make it harder for thieves to identify the wires and hotwire the car, can be a real pain as ive found on a few occasions when removing faulty systems but once you start digging into the wires and tracing them back youll soon see where they are connected to and what they run.
one will normally be to the starter circuit and one to fuel pump circuit, once you've id'd those the others are just earths, siren and to the door solenoids etc
but yes is time consuming and a bit of a headache to sort out

http://www.gti-r-us.co.uk www.force500.com

14new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 24th January 2014, 2:06 pm

watoga

watoga
ecu technician
ecu technician

Yeah I've pretty much traced most of the wires now, and thankfully I'm no longer keeping the door locks (or indeed most of the electrics) so much of the wires can simply be cut  Very Happy I'm more annoyed about the installation of the other aftermarket parts which were very unsafely installed.

Thanks Bob for the help. Much appreciated!
Dave

http://star.pst.qub.ac.uk/~dbj

15new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 7th October 2015, 9:30 pm

Cosmic73

Cosmic73

Just read through this post in preperation for the engine strip and rebuild i plan on doing this Winter. Very Happy
Definitly going to take on board the good advice but one of your points has got me worried Shocked

Also it is a very bad idea to run an engine in with a big turbo fitted

If the car ive got already has a big turbo, would you advice sourcing and fitting a std one for bedding in, or could i run in with the big one as long i ensure rpm limits arent exceeded?

16new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 7th October 2015, 11:38 pm

GTI-R US

GTI-R US
Management
Management

Yes that will be fine as long as the car has a good previous map installed but you'll need to get the afr checked on a Dyno to make sure the fuelling is all good as you certainly don't want a new engine over fuelling as can cause a lot of damage

http://www.gti-r-us.co.uk www.force500.com

17new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 15th February 2016, 7:45 pm

Cosmic73

Cosmic73

Hi Bob, ill be running in my engine soon but can not for the life of me find any 15w40 mineral oil.
However theres loads of 10w40 mineral oil? Smile

18new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 15th February 2016, 8:31 pm

nomad

nomad
Admin
Admin

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=400906503793&alt=web

19new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 15th February 2016, 8:35 pm

Cosmic73

Cosmic73

I knew that would happen Mad
I searched on ebay aswell,
Anyway, cheers the link Very Happy
I'm off for my lobotomy now Laughing

20new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 15th February 2016, 8:41 pm

Gostek

Gostek
Events Organiser
Events Organiser

I've bough some shell mineral from euro car parts other day for around £20

https://bbmgarage.co.uk/

21new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 15th February 2016, 8:43 pm

nomad

nomad
Admin
Admin

Lol ... i just typed in 15w 40 mineral oil and loads come up maybe your ebay powers are weakining Laughing

22new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 15th February 2016, 8:46 pm

Cosmic73

Cosmic73

Just did the same myself, millions of hits, Embarassed

23new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 15th February 2016, 8:51 pm

shroom

shroom
moderator
moderator

Too much internet porn is making him go blind.

I've got pains in my arms
and my donkeys growing shorter
My knees have turnt to water
And I think im going blind

24new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 15th February 2016, 10:20 pm

GTI-R US

GTI-R US
Management
Management

Buy 10ltr of it as you ideally need to change it at first 50 & 500miles before using fully synth at 1000

http://www.gti-r-us.co.uk www.force500.com

25new engine run in procedure Empty Re: new engine run in procedure 16th February 2016, 9:08 am

Cosmic73

Cosmic73

sound advice, I've just bougrt a job lot at OPIE oils for 10L plus 6L of gearbox oil, Smile

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